Want to see a feature? The strong point of EAC though is skin brightening. It is the one that usually turns yellow when exposed to the air. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. So this all sounds really great, but these are only in-vitro results at this point. Form of Vitamin C, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbate, EAC;Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Sweet Orange Peel Oil, Citrus Sinensis Oil, Form of Vitamin C, Ascorbyl Isotetrapalmitate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, ATIP;Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Amur Cork Tree Bark Extract, Oubaku Ekisu. Citric acid comes from citrus fruits and is an AHA. The Melano CC Vitamin C Brightening Gel is a new addition, infused with Vitamin C and E to lighten dark spots, reduce redness and soothe skin for a healthy flawless skin. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three months and 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. Spotted a bug? Rohto Melano CC Brightening Lotion ingredients explained: 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Water(Aqua), Butylene Glycol, Alcohol, Glycerin, PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Dipropylene Glycol, PEG/PPG-30/10 Dimethicone, Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Bis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane, 1,4-Dicarboxylate, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, Methylparaben, Sodium … Being both of them citruses, they contain very similar active compounds with very similar (potential) effects on the skin. Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. Still, if you have sensitive skin and prefer fragrance-free products, bergamot oil is not for you. is drying. Other than its No.1 Whitening Essence in Japan, Melano CC offers various Vitamin C-infused solutions for spotless fair skin with an affordable pricing. Melano CC is a brand from Japan that offers brightening products that contain 100% pure vitamin C. Thus, they introduced Melano CC Brightening Gel , a moisturiser with a thin texture and 100% pure vitamin C that will restore moisture in your skin. Read all the geeky details about Ascorbic Acid here >>, Read all the geeky details about Tocopherol here >>, shiny description of orange fruit extract, Works best between a concentration of 5-20%, Boosts the skin’s own collagen production, If used under sunscreen it boosts its UV protection, Extremely unstable and oxidizes very easily in presence of light or air, Stable in solutions with water only if pH is less than 3.5 or in waterless formulations, Vit E + C work in synergy and provide superb photoprotection, Ferulic acid doubles the photoprotection effect of Vit C+E and helps to stabilize Vit C, Potent Vit. Made with from around the world. I'm seriously thinking of taking up a job as Japanese cosmetics translator. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. An error has occurred. what's the deal with alcohol in skincare products at alcohol denat. BG’s main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. It is a clear, colorless liquid that is water-soluble and water-binding (aka humectant) and can help to solubilize sparingly-water soluble things (e.g. So now, you know that Vitamin C is great and all, but it's really unstable and gives cosmetics companies many headaches. Read reviews, see the full ingredient list and find out if the notable ingredients are good or bad for your skin concern! Overall, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a very promising but not a fully proven Vitamin C derivative. Other than that, citrus peel also contains the problematic compound called furanocoumarin that makes them mildly phototoxic. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! Oxidized limonene can cause allergic contact dermatitis and counts as a frequent skin sensitizer. But not all vitamin Cs are created equal. It’s part of 200 natural oils including lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot, jasmine, geranium and it can be found in 90-95% of prestige perfumes on the market. It’s kind of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products. Melano CC Anti Spot Whitening Essence ingredients explained: Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Purified Water, Propanediol, PEG-8, Ethanol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Cross Polymer, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Pyridoxine Hcl, Alpinia Katsumadai Seed Extract, … Simple alcohol that's a great solvent, penetration enhancer, creates cosmetically elegant, light formulas, great astringent, and antimicrobial. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products. Read more. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. With this context in mind let's see what ATIP might be able to do. VITAMIN C (L-ASCORBIC ACID) Vitamin C is great for our health and immunity, even as a skincare ingredient! The essential oil coming from the fruit (probably the rind) of the bergamot orange. It's a non-essential amino acid (meaning that our body can synthesize it) and serves as a water-binding ingredient. Understanding Sulfates. This Melano CC serum is a little oily when initially applied but sinks into your skin quickly. Mentholatum - Melano CC Intensive Anti-Spot Essence: rated 4 out of 5 on MakeupAlley. A super common and cheap fragrance ingredient. BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. But according to a comparative study done in 1995, citric acid has less skin improving magic properties than glycolic or lactic acid. Melano CC is an oil-based serum. Mentholatum Melano CC Vitamin C Lotion contains a SkinCarisma flagged Silicone. Japanese beauty blog Ratzillacosme.com mentions ascorbic acid, tocopheryl acetate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate and thymol as the Melano CC Essence’s active ingredients. Also, it's extremely unstable and hard to formulate. Apply on palms and gently pat onto skin until thoroughly absorbed. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. Propanediol is a natural alternative for the often used and often bad-mouthed propylene glycol. Vitamin C Brightening Essence Net Weight: 20 ml. Product Description Melano CC is the original Vitamin C formula developed & made in Rohto Pharmaceutical Co. Japan, to revive dullness, even out skin tone and promote a healthy glowing skin from inside out. Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. It might also have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and collagen boosting abilities. A mildly viscous, amber-colored liquid with fatty odor, made from Castor Oil and polyethylene glycol (PEG). It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. The problem, though, is that it's very unstable, turns brown and becomes ineffective in no time (after a few month) and the cosmetics industry is trying to come up with smart derivatives that are stable and have the magic properties of pure Vitamin C. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid or EAC for short is an "etherified derivative of ascorbic acid" that consists of vitamin C and an ethyl group bound to the third carbon position. BTW, it’s also a food additive. Vitamin C of course! Rohto Melano CC Whitening Lotion is free from SkinCarisma flagged Sulfates. See the list below for details. Get in touch! Serine is an amino acid that most often comes to the formula as part of a moisturizing complex. Good old water, aka H2O. Its main component (83-97%) is limonene, the super common fragrant ingredient. Though its long name does not reveal it, this polymer molecule (big molecule from repeated subunits or monomers) is a relative to the super common, water-loving thickener, Carbomer. In short, Vitamin C has three proven magic abilities: antioxidant, collagen booster, and skin brightener. An often used glycol that works as a solvent, humectant, penetration enhancer and also gives a good slip to the products. Support SkinCarisma by shopping from our trusted partnered retailers below. One of them is Rohto’s Melano CC Anti-Spot White Lotion, which was launched back in 2014. Thymol is a known to be antimicrobial and antibacterial. Thanks. This, while being one of the most effective forms of Vitamin C, is also one of the least stable. Works in synergy with Vitamin C. An AHA that comes from citrus fruits. Quasi-Drug (医薬部外品) Mentholatum Melano CC Intensive Anti-Spot Essence is a Japanese beauty serum to treat hyperpigmentation and acne. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. The study was a small (10 patients), double-blind experiment, and the formula did show some measurable anti-aging results. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. A smallish polymer molecule (created from repeated units of Polyethylene glycol, aka PEG) that's used as a solubilizer and viscosity control agent. C serums might cause a slight tingling on sensitive skin, Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin, Significant photoprotection against UVB rays, Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great photoprotection, Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive. A very stable and promising form of the skincare superstar, Vitamin C. If you do not know why Vitamin C is such a big deal in skin care, you can catch up here. Ingredients subject to change at manufacturer's discretion. It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only have to be absorbed into the skin but also have to be converted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. It seems to have potent anti-inflammatory activity, it's a mild antioxidant and also has strong anti-bacterial effect for acne causing bacteria, Propionibacterium acne. The moisture-replenishing toner is medicated with vitamin C derivative and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to treat and prevent dark spots and freckles while reducing inflammation. I think it actually works better than the DE serum. Upon application, the oil seems to sit on the skin for a few minutes, before being absorbed completely; you can see how, immediately upon application, the oil leaves a thin film of residue on my hand. The key ingredient used in the Melano CC Intensive Anti-Spot Essence is Vitamin C in the L-Ascorbic Acid form. It seems to have potent anti-inflammatory activity, it's a mild antioxidant and also has strong anti-bacterial effect for acne causing bacteria, Propionibacterium acne. Third, ATIP seems to have all three magic abilities of pure vitamin C: it gives antioxidant protection from both UVB and UVA rays, it increases collagen synthesis (even more than AA) and it has a skin brightening effect by reducing melanogenesis by more than 80% in human melanoma cell cultures. It can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. Have suggestions, comments? Side note: Lotion (ローシヨン) is also called “keshosui” (化粧水), which literally means “cosmetics water”. Rohto Mentholatum Melano CC Vitamin C Essence ingredients explained: Ascorbic Acid (Active Vitamin C), Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E Derivative), Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate, Isopropyl Methylphenol, Vitamin C Tetraisopalmitate, Ethoxydiglycol, Alpinia Catfish Seed Extract (Alpinia White), BG, Edet Acid Salt, Viscosity Modifier, Perfume (it's also alcohol, but with some additives to make sure no one drinks it). However, for a Vitamin C derivative to work it's not enough just to be stable, they also have to be absorbed into the skin and be converted there to pure Vitamin C. We have good news regarding the absorption: on top of manufacturer claims, there is some data (animal study) demonstrating in can get into the skin, and it seems to be better at it than Ascorbyl Glucoside, another vitamin C derivative. MELANO CC Pure Vitamin C Essence 20ml -Pure VIT.C - Penetrates into Skin to Fight pimples, Pimple Marks and Dark Spots Orange peel contains less of it than some other citruses (like bergamot or lime), but still, be careful with it especially if it is in a product for daytime use. As to why, we can write here extremely similar things to our shiny description of orange fruit extract. Rohto Mentholatum Rohto Melano Cc Brightening Vitamin C Moisturizing Cream ingredients explained: Ascorbyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Water, Salicylic Acid, Prunus Yedoensis Leaf Extract, Oenothera Biennis Seed Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxypropyl … Popular Ingredients, Product Ingredient Safety Breakdown (EWG Rating Ratings), Soothing Treatment - Rosacea Concentrated Ultra Calming Night Cream, Thirst Things First Revitalizing Vitamin C Mist Mask, when hope is not enough facial replenishing balm, Foto Ultra 100 Active Unify Fusion Fluid SPF 50+, Foto Ultra Age Repair Fusion Water SPF 50, Foto Ultra 100 Spot Prevent Fusion Fluid SPF 50+, 50 Megumi Morning UV Protection Cream SPF 50+ PA++++, Mentholatum - Skin Aqua Super Moisture Essence Sunblock SPF 50+ PA++++, Mentholatum Melano CC Intensive Anti-Spot Essence. See 12 member reviews and photos. There is also in-vitro data showing that it converts to AA in the skin. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). The downside of it is that it oxidises on air exposure and might become allergenic. Some experts even think that regular exposure to alcohol damages skin barrier and causes inflammation though it's a debated opinion. It’s mostly used as an emulsifier and surfactant but most often it is used to solubilize fragrances into water-based formulas. The essential oil coming from the rind of the orange (the sweet one). FULL INGREDIENTS LIST Active (s): 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) & Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate. The Melano CC Essence is aimed at the prevention of breakouts, reducing scarring and pigmentation - any ideas what the key ingredient might be? If these magic three letters don’t tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. Rohto Melano CC Concentrate Face Mask is free from SkinCarisma flagged Allergens Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. If this is the case, it is usually combined with other AHA containing fruit extracts such as bilberry, sugar cane, orange, and sugar maple in a super popular ingredient mix trade named ACB Fruit Mix. This refreshing, citrus fragrance lotion that is infused with Vitamin C intensely hydrates and brightens skins for a radiant, evenly toned and healthy skin. A mildly viscous, amber-colored liquid that works as an emulsifier and surfactant. If you wanna know more, we wrote a more detailed explanation about what's the deal with alcohol in skincare products at alcohol denat. So great in fact, that it surpasses the penetration of pure vitamin C threefold at the same concentration and it penetrates successfully into the deeper layers of the skin (that is usually important to do some anti-aging work). A study made in the UK with 483 people tested the allergic reaction to 3% oxidised linalool and 2.3% had positive test results. It's a common top note in perfumes and contains (among others) fragrant compounds limonene (37%), linalyl acetate (30%) and linalool (8.8%). A common helper ingredient that stabilizes emulsions and helps to thicken up products. It's free of harmful alcohols, allergens, gluten, sulfates, fungal acne feeding components, parabens, silicones and polyethylene glycol (PEG). Melano CC is one of the most popular whitening skin care brands in Japan. It's produced sustainably from corn sugar and it's Ecocert approved. The most common skincare ingredient of all. This means that our molecule is part water- and part oil-loving, so it not only works as a thickener but also as an emulsion stabilizer. It is typically used in tiny amounts, around 0.1% or even less. A smallish polymer molecule that is used as a solubilizer and viscosity control agent in cosmetic products. Other Ingredients: Water,, butylene glycol,, salicylic acid,, prunus yedoensis leaf extract,, oenothera biennis seed extract,, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil,, lactic acid,, hydrolyzed brassica alba seed extract,, rosa canina fruit oil,, disodium EDTA,, ratzillacosme.com do.not.copy,, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose stearoxy ether,, carbomer,, potassium hydroxide,, cetyl alcohol,, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil,, … It also contains something they call ‘Deep Penetration Technology’, which also allows the gel to quickly absorb into the skin without leaving a sticky or greasy residue. Just like orange fruit, lemon fruit also contains citric acid so it is commonly used as a natural, mild exfoliating agent. Acrylates/​C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Cross Polymer, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Cross Polymer. Melano CC products are formulated to be at their most effective to lighten acne marks, fight dark spots and minimize pores. In general, amino acids are great skincare ingredients that play an important role in proper skin hydration but there is not much info out there about what specifically serine can do for the skin. Second, because it's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be great. A stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, that might have (in-vitro results) all the magic abilities of pure vitamin C (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener). All in all, limonene has some pros and cons, but - especially if your skin is sensitive - the cons probably outweigh the pros. Both of them are big molecules that contain acrylic acid units, but Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer also contains some other monomers that are hydrophobic, i.e. We could find Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate mentioned only in one published in-vivo study that examined the anti-aging properties of a silicone formula containing 10% AA and 7% ATIP. On top of manufacturer claims, there is also clinical in-vivo (tested on real people) data showing that 2% EAC can improve skin tone and whiten the skin. It has many instant benefits: it's a great solvent, penetration enhancer, creates cosmetically elegant, light formulas, great astringent and antimicrobial. MELANO CC Pure Vitamin C Toner Lotion 170ml - to Revive Dullness, Even Out Skin Tone and Promote a Healthy Glowing Skin from Inside Out 5.0 out of 5 stars 7 $27.00 The essential oil coming from the fruit (probably the rind) of the bergamot orange. Quasi-Drug (医薬部外品) Melano CC Anti-Spot White Lotion Rich (also known as Melano CC Vitamin C Whitening Lotion Rich) is a hydrating Japanese watery lotion that targets excess pigmentation. The problem with linalool is, that just like limonene it oxidises on air exposure and becomes allergenic. If your skin is sensitive, be careful with citrus extracts. I finished using the entire box of Rohto Melano CC Essence Face Masks on 18 August (I know this review is overdue) and the results were terrific. Browse products by A clear, colorless liquid that works as a solvent and viscosity decreasing ingredient. So citric acid is an exfoliant, that can - just like other AHAs - gently lift off the dead skin cells of your skin and make it more smooth and fresh. As for the three magic abilities of Vitamin C, we again mostly have only the manufacturer's claims, but at least those are very promising. It has the distinctive scent of yuzu. For these reasons, I find the tube and nozzle design of the Melano CC more effective. If life gives the cosmetic industry lemon, it makes lemon fruit extract. Melano CC Essence is one of my favourite vitamin C serums. The authors theorized that the 10% AA is released slowly from the silicon delivery system and probably stays in the upper layer of the skin to give antioxidant benefits, while ATIP penetrates more rapidly and deeply and gives some wrinkle-reducing benefits. C Brightening Lotion. Find out if the Rohto Mentholatum Melano CC Intensive Anti-Spot Essence is good for you! We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. Details. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. The community where skincare It does smell nice but the problem is that it oxidizes on air exposure and the resulting stuff is not good for the skin. A well-known issue with bergamot oil (apart from the fragrance allergens) is that it contains phototoxic, Serine is an amino acid that most often comes to the formula as part of a moisturizing complex. However, it is hard to know how much pure vitamin C or ATIP can be thanked. Regarding conversion, we can cite only a manufacturers claim saying that EAC is metabolized in the skin into pure ascorbic acid (and the ascorbic acid content of EAC is very high - 86,4% - compared to the usual 50-60% Vitamin C content of other derivatives). It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) A stable form of Vitamin C, whose strong point is skin-brightening. A super common fragrance ingredient found naturally in many plants including citrus peel oils, rosemary or lavender. Ingredients Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Methyparaben, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Fragrance, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Hydroxide, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Alcohol, Ascorbic Acid, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract enthuasists come make better decisions. But, citrus fruits are chemically complex mixtures with a bunch of other active components such as vitamin C, flavonoids, phenolics, carbohydrates and essential oil (this latter one coming from the rind of the fruit, but still present in some amount in the fruit extract). Medicated with Vitamin C fans and have written about it in excruciating detail proven C... Citrus fruits and is an amino acid ( Ethyl Ascorbic acid, acetate! Also one of them citruses, they contain very similar ( potential ) effects on the.... 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